Tuesday, December 31, 2013

4x4= gauge math

I don't know of a single knitter that loves the gauge swatch. I'm sure many knitters have the same problem with swatches that I've experienced:
1. Once complete and blocked, math done, and you cast on ... the math was wrong and you have to rip and start over.
2. Not blocking the swatch will not give accurate numbers either ... But I often have better luck unblocked. Weird
3. If you don't swatch and only go by the stitches/inch measure given on the yarn ... Then you may not match the pattern and it's still off.
Sigh.
I've gotten around gauge swatch most of my knitting career by designing the sweater pattern myself or only appropriating parts of another designers pattern and still making up the math for mine as I go.
Cloudberry cardigan is progressing nicely. One sleeve is almost done and ready to attach, and the yarn for the other sleeve is almost done spinning ... In this calm and pleasant time of knitting I began contemplating the arduous task ahead. Writing up the pattern.
As I don't often follow gauge swatches myself, I wonder at my ability to write a gauge swatch or alternate instructions for a pattern. Even if the pattern is fairly simplistic and easily adjusted. So, here is the swatch...
It is 32 stitches across by about 50 rows high (that does not include the 20 rows that are the turned hems seen in the back. It is 5x5" which means that it should be 6 stitches per inch when I cast on. Wrong wrong wrong. When I first cast on for a 38" round sweater (a nice large) I had 220 stitches going round. I knit the hem and then did a 'test' measure of the piece. 44"! GAH!
Starting over I decided to use 5 stitches per inch, which should have been 190 stitches at cast on. But I cast on 180 stitches to be increased by 6-8 at each armpit creating a slightly larger upper body for the yoke. Yes, this is a slightly smaller sweater, at only 36" around - but that doesn't include the 1" front edge for the buttons. Incorporated into this 'fuzzy' math was the knowledge that the sweater is going to stretch really really well when blocked.
Instead of having as sweater with positive ease (larger than my body measurements) I actually have a -1 ease. It will be a nice snug little sweater - not the larger sweater I was afraid of creating.
Now I only have to be afraid that it doesn't stretch as much as I want and I can't wear it. Poop.

To distract myself I started more spinning - probably for the sweater, but I feel really smart.
See those two balls? They are each 1oz of fiber. Each one will be spun and then plied together. My hope is that I will be much closer to having bobbins that contain the same yardage if they start with the same number of ounces. Wishes and horseshoes ...

Be excellent to each other!

Monday, December 23, 2013

Process knitter

Processes are fascinating. A few weeks ago I was privileged enough to hear a speech by Franklin Habit at the mn knitters guild. It was AMAZING and gave me a greater appreciation of this trait I feel that we share (and I have it to a much smaller degree). Wanting to understand the creation of something by starting from the most basic element and going through every process to learn how each portion is created leading up to the creation of the finished product.

To me, in my knitting, that means understanding and working with sheep fleece, roving vs. top, spinning, twist, dyeing, and multiple cool knitting styles. To this end I have purchased spindles and top to learn spinning. Many thanks to the lovely people submitting to youtube for the tutorials (I learned from you)! I have purchased a spinning wheel and WAY more cormo top than I need (but absolutely love)! In a corner of my apartment also sits a bag of Greener Shades dyes for when I finally take the plunge and dye some of this handspun loveliness that I create each summer. In another corner are cones of mercerized cotton that go with my knitting machine - because I wasn't far enough down the rabbit hole.

See it? Somewhere at the bottom of all the things is a rabbit.

And it's a deep rabbit hole. Of course I tell myself that all these acquisitions are to further my understanding of my materials and provide better finished products.

I am sure that these skills do lead to more knowledge that in some way informs my decisions in my projects.

But I can't hide it from myself any longer ... I shall finally confess, I just love everything that has to do with wool. There is a compunction deep inside that must, I must do all these things related to wool. These things are fascinating, worth trying, and investing.

My current project, which has been the topic of many blog posts, is the perfect example. The cloudberry cardigan is a beautiful mix of fiber, designing, and knitting. It's all three ... Three spokes of the process.

And the process continues. I've finished a small skein so the sleeves may commence. Please enjoy this small glimpse into my love of the process.

So, I don't own a niddy-noddy (that wooden thing for creating hanks of handspun yarn and I don't know how it works). I discovered years ago that I could create hanks of yarn by winding them around my swift. That stick thing in my hand? That is my favorite wooden spoon ... Best tool ever.

Here is the new hank that has not had a bath yet, setting the twist. When done I measured (and this new thing I just learned!) the twist is about 20 degrees. I'll soon create my own gauge thing to measure the twist. Sort of like a compass, way cool.

The creamy hank after it's bath. You can still see the bits of fluff and fuzz that didn't spin tightly. And I like it. It's not perfectly smooth ... But I love the look of the sweater and that is what matters.

Now I have 180 yards more for the sweater ... And need to keep spinning. From the math I guess that I need another 400 yards or so for the sleeves and the rest of the body. The process continues. Each time one phase ends another begins up continuing on in the cycle of crafts and creation.

 

In other quick news I finished the lovely thing with the glorious buttons ... But as it's a gift here is my favorite picture that doesn't show what it actually became. Sorry.

So, happy holidays and

Be excellent to each other!

 

Friday, December 13, 2013

Knit till you drop ...

I'm hoping this is a figurative phrase for my day. Tonight is Drunken Knit Night at my favorite pub with some of my favorite ladies! But this means we are drinking and knitting at the same time! Oh my!

I've thankfully brought two projects with: one which must be finished by Christmas and the other is straight stockingette going back and forth. Both projects carry their own knit till you drop hazards. The Christmas project includes cables which is more difficult with my tendonitis - so my hands may stop knitting from the swelling. The stockingette is a large amount of stockingette for a sweater ... Which still requires another 700 yards to be spun for completion.

So, let me digress. The cardigan comes along well. I've got about 14" done on the main body. I just joined my second ball of yarn, the next 400 yards. I only had 1100 yards spun for this project - and upon joining the second ball determined that it was TOO THIN! Somehow I spun lace weight and thought it would pass as fingering ... Which it won't in such a large project as this with multiple skeins.

See that section beneath my finger that looks a little thin compared to the rest? Hmm ... Lace weight.

So, lesson learned. Not only will I spin all the yarn required before I begin a project. But I will also check on a yarn gauge what weight it has become!

Really, the project has a lot of great yarn variability. When I spin I leave the bumps and fluffy sections in that create slightly large stitches occasionally. I love the resulting look. It feels much less machine made ... And has that air of handmade love and hugs.

Here's the skein I ended up using and eventually practicing my photography with ...

In sum: my fingers may fall off from too many cables, too much spinning ... Or being a bit punchy at knit night tonight. We'll see.

Be excellent to each other!

 

Sunday, December 8, 2013

Knitting right along ...

Tettegouche is released, another pattern started on the needles, more projects percolating in my head ... And I bought more yarn. The trap, the ever present trap of new projects and shiny new buttons... It lured me past the realm of practicality and into the happy world of a project bag filled with UFOs.

But isn't the yarn so pretty? It's worsted weight Plymouth select merino superwash. They call it color 43 ... And I call it dragonfly. And the buttons! The buttons are lovely and shiny and perfect!

Hopefully these ingredients will work themselves into a button-up cowl by Christmas ...

 

In other news, it's been the perfect weekend for knitting. Not only did I purchase a new project, but an arctic blast has plunged the Rockies and Midwest into a freeze. For the past three days it has not reached 5 degrees F. Which means that the new project was started and much work completed on the body of cloudberry cardigan.

Please pardon the yellow ness of the photo. It really is a creamy natural white. That is one skein of handspun cormo, 425 yards all done. I'm guessing I shall need roughly 1400 yards to complete the cardigan, and I only have 325 yards more of another skein. Time to start spinning!

If anyone is looking for me, I'm locking myself away in my living room hibernating with my spinning wheel and needles until it warms up.

Be excellent to each other!